Posted June 24, 2024 in Brewing

“Blessed is the mother who gives birth to a brewer.” – Czech Proverb
The late journalist and beer writer Michael Jackson once said, “Extra trouble and extra time are the hallmarks of Czech brewing.”
In his 1989 Discovery Channel television special “The Bohemian Connection,” Jackson travels across parts of Czechoslovakia, now the Czech Republic, and rejoices in world-class lagers from Pilsen, Prague, and České Budějovice. While regaling viewers with over 1,000 years of brewing history from one of Europe’s oldest beer-producing regions, Jackson touches on time-honored practices such as traditional floor malting, double-decoctions, and three-month lagering regimens. Thirty-five years later, the footage remains deeply intoxicating.

Still, brewers around the world have struggled to justify the energy and expense these time-intensive processes require. After all, it’s entirely possible to brew fantastic lager beer by other more efficient means. But those other beers are not Czech Lagers. And year after year, the Czech Republic leads the whole galaxy in beer consumption per capita. How do we account for this phenomenon? By brewing the damn beer, of course.
The following Czech Lager Checklist will cover some of the points you may need to consider should you choose to scratch your Bohemian itch in the brewhouse. Some of the most drinkable beers in the world await.

Czech Lager Styles and Colors
Pale Czech Lagers

Amber Czech Lagers
Dark Czech Lagers

The Strength of Czech Lagers
In addition to classifying beers by color, Czech brewers also categorize them by gravity. The names may be confusing, but the trusty Plato scale translates without a problem.
Source: bjcp.org

How Much Time? How Much Trouble?
“Malt is one of the life forces in every beer. You should be able to taste it in every glass.” That’s Michael Jackson again.
When the Beer Hunter visits Budweiser Budvar in České Budějovice, Jackson attributes their beer’s exceptional malt character to a 6-hour double-decoction. He believes this extra time and extra trouble is worth the effort, and Czech brewers tend to agree.
Pilsner Urquell, for example, is famous for being triple-decocted. Many more Czech Pale Lagers are the product of double-decoction. Compared to infusion mashing, decoction provides higher mash efficiency, higher attenuation, improved body, and more stable foam; it also unlocks greater color and flavor intensity without the use of specialty malts.
But in a world where it’s easy to get well-modified modern malts, is decoction mashing still worthwhile?

The Appeal of Decoction
“[Double-decoction] is physically demanding and isn’t energy-efficient by any means,” says Andy Ruhland, Head Brewer at Bad Weather Brewing in St. Paul, MN. “But the proof is in the pudding with the finished product. There’s a layered malt flavor. There’s more nuance.”
The proof is also in Bad Weather’s brewhouse, which was designed with decoction in mind. “It’s a three-vessel system, and it’s a mash-lauter combo,” Andy says. “We pump the decoction into the boil kettle and then pump it back into the mash water. We adjust heat with the steam jacket. We don’t boil the mash; we kind of simmer it at a slightly lower temp. We don’t want to scorch the mash. That’s the one thing you don’t want to do with decoction. You want to simmer while getting some good stirring. We keep it on the lower side of the boiling point while we’re stirring, just to keep it hot and get some of those Maillard reactions without scorching.”
Those Maillard reactions can help coax out an extra hint of grain character or robust flavors and aromas of toasted bread crust, toffee, and caramel. Those flavors are the whole point behind the process.
“I just don’t think you can mimic that any other way,” Andy adds.

Essential Ingredients for Brewing Czech Lagers
Malt Comes First
Whether you’re cloning a Rahr Technical Center Czech Pale Lager or cranking out something dark and moody, we recommend starting with the finest quality Bohemian barley malt from Weyermann® Specialty Malts.

Hops Are Next
Prized by brewers and beer lovers from Bohemia to Bakersfield, hops grown in the Czech Republic are some of the most delicate and fragrant in all the world. Czech Lagers may vary in their balance between malt and hops in the finish, but any imbalance should be gentle rather than aggressive.

Water Deserves Your Consideration as Well
Wells in the Czech Republic produce some of the world’s cleanest and softest brewing water. Piping that water into your brewery is likely off the table, but focused efforts made toward mimicking the traditional Czech H2O profile will be rewarded in kind. For best results, brew with soft water that is low in sulfates and carbonates.

Last But Not Least, There’s Yeast
For all yeast-related inquiries, we turn to Head Brewer Olaf Morgenroth from the Fermentis Academy. He says the single most important thing for ensuring the successful fermentation of your next Czech Lager is to “Keep the yeast happy!”
“Happy yeast, at the end of the day, is the most important thing. I’m sure you’ve heard this saying: Brewers don’t make beer. Yeast makes beer. Brewers merely create an environment for yeast to thrive and make good beer.”
As luck would have it, Fermentis SafLager™ S-23 is particularly happy when consuming wort for lager and pilsner-style beers. Coming from the VLB in Berlin, S-23 is slightly less attenuative than other lager strains. That makes it a good option should you want a plusher beer with a bigger finish. It’s also capable of producing very pleasant fruity, estery notes.
If a more neutral profile is what you’re after, Fermentis SafLager™ 34/70 and S-189 are also permissible.

Modern Commercial Examples
This concludes our Czech Lager Checklist. Please reach out to RahrBSG with any questions pertaining to the wonderful brewing ingredients and beers from the Czech Republic.

Additional Resources